Drytooling Lingo
This is a working document of drytooling terminology that can be changed and updated. If you see something wrong or have input on a new term, Let Us Know!
Ax (Axe) - n. A climbing tool used by mountaineers in both the ascent and descent of routes that involve frozen conditions with snow or ice. Specialized ice axes used for vertical ice climbing are known as ice tools. Ice tools have shorter and more curved shafts; stronger, sharper, and more curved picks which can usually be replaced, and often ergonomic grips and finger rests. Used in a pair.
Bolt - n. A permanent anchor fixed into a hole drilled in the rock as a form of protection.
Bolt-on Crampon - n. Crampons that are attached to climbing boots with hardware such as nuts and bolts. Bolt-ons are a very specialized piece of kit.
Carbon Fiber - n. A lightweight, flexible, and very strong material. It is 70% lighter than steel, 40% lighter than aluminum with high strength to weight ratio, high corrosion resistance, low mass, superior fatigue properties, and resistance for low temperatures.
Cheek - n. Metal flanges added to the head of an ice ax to aid in the stabilization of the tool where the head of the tool is in contact with the climbing surface (rock / plywood)
Comp Jitters - n. aka Competitive State Anxiety. A feeling of nervousness prior to a competition. Occurs when the demands of the sport are greater than that athletes perceived abilities.
Crampon - n. A traction device that is attached to footwear to improve mobility on snow and ice during winter climbing.
Dab - v. To touch with a hand or foot a portion of a route that is not allowed.
Drytooling Hold - n. In the gym, a manufactured hold for the pick of a tool to latch onto for climbing movement. Outdoors, a location on the rock face where the pick is placed to aid in climbing movement.
Dual points - n. A crampon with two equal length points at the front. Crampon are available in many arrangements, but primarily in either mono point or dual point. Dual points are useful in soft snow and also poorly consolidated ice. They are not a good choice for dry tooling because a good placement on one point is usually prevented by the opposite point.
First Position - n. aka First Grip. The lowest grip on a tool. Usually the most ergonomic handle on the shaft.
Figure 4 - n. A climbing maneuver wherein the leg is hooked over the opposite wrist near the grip point on a tool. The purpose is to use one’s own body to gain leverage and reach further on steep, overhanging terrain. When performed correctly the climber’s body approximates the shape of the number 4.
Figure 9 - n. A climbing maneuver wherein the leg is hooked over the same side wrist near the grip point on a tool. The purpose is to use one’s own body to gain leverage and reach further on steep, overhanging terrain. When performed correctly the climber’s body approximates the shape of the number 9.
Flame out - n. A state of physicality where one’s muscles (in climbing, usually the forearms) spectacularly and especially prematurely fail from extreme effort. Sometimes caused by lack of proper warm up.
Floating Undercling - n. A climbing maneuver, usually performed after a stein pull, where the climber pushes with their feet and pulls up on the tool in opposition to gain a greater reach.
Front Point - n. and v. Points projecting out from the front of a crampon that allow climbers to kick into steep snow, ice, and in dry tooling competitions, the wood of the wall. To front point is to use those points while climbing.
Fruit Boot - n. Hybrid of a climbing shoe, an insulated boot, and crampon.
Grip - n. The portions of the shaft where the climber handles the tool. In dry tooling, there are usually two and sometimes three. See also, First Position, Second Position, and Third Position.
Heel Spur - n. A backwards facing point on the crampon. These were used extensively in early dry tooling history but have fallen out of favor as climbers learned that the spurs removed some of the challenge of a route.
Hook - v. To place the pick of a tool in a hold without requiring a swing to set the placement of the pick.
Ice climbing speed competition - n. A climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal.
Ice Fifi - n. A specialized type of climbing tool used in an ice climbing speed competition.
IWC (Ice World Cup) - n. The Ice Climbing World Cup is an annual ice climbing competition organized by the UIAA. The event is composed of a series of competitions that take place in countries around the world, culminating in a final competition
Layback - n. and v. A climbing maneuver wherein one pulls and leans off one side of a flake or a crack and push your feet against the other side. In dry tooling, the climber would pull on tools set on dry tooling holds while pressing feet into the wall to maintain pressure on the holds.
Masselottes - n. Pick weights. The term is a trade name coined by Petzl that describes the pick weights that can be added to picks that can accept them. Pick weights add weight to the head of the tool. The added weight creates inertia when the climber swings and helps the pick penetrate the ice.
Match - v. To use one hold for two limbs. In dry tooling, a match can be performed with two tools on one hold OR by gripping one tool with both hands.
Monopoint - n. A crampon setup where there is only one point extended in from of the toe. Monopoints are best for dry tooling and mixed climbing, thin ice and anything technically difficult. They are extremely precise—they can stick to a patch of ice the size of a quarter, or a rock crystal smaller than a peppercorn. You can also stick a monopoint into a small pocket or crack, and in the groove between icicles. Another advantage, and one essential for dry tooling, is that a mono point lets you pivot your foot, allowing you to drop knee or shift your position without blowing off the hold. Source: Rock and Ice
Onsight - n. and v. A style of climbing where a climber successfully finishes a route, without falling, on the first try - without seeing other people climb it first, and without receiving any advice about the climb.
Ouray Ice Park - n. Winter park located in Ouray Colorado with human-made ice climbs and extreme dry tooling. The park is free & open from mid-December to late March for icy climbing & snowy views.
Pick - n. The toothed, pointed end of the head of a tool, typically slightly curved.
Second Position - n. aka Second Grip. The grip that is located just above the first position on the shaft of a tool.
Secondaries - n. (aka secondary points) The first set of point points on a crampon located behind the front points. Crampons designed for steep climbing feature barbed secondary points that project forward. This style allows an ice climber to press the secondary points into the ice for more stability on steep terrain. Source Petzl
Send - n and v. To successfully reach the top and finish a climb.
Spike - The point at the bottom of the shaft of an ice tool used to stabilize the tool when in contact with the climbing surface, usually ice. Dedicated dry tools usually do not have a spike.
Stein Pull - n. A climbing maneuver where the pick is placed in a hold and the head of the axe is pressed against the climbing surface in a camming fashion creating a lever.
Third Position - n. aka Third Grip. The grip position above the second position on an ice tool.
Redpoint - n. and v. Free climbing a route, while leading, after having practiced the route beforehand.
Release - n., and v. To remove the pick from the previous placement in the sequence of a route.
Reverse Grip - n. A flip of the usual grip position on an ice tool, usually used while side pulling or on a stein pull, Doing so allows the climber to engage larger muscle groups rather than just the bicep.
Shaft - n. The length of material from the head of the tool through the grip to the spike.
Side Hang - n. See also ‘Yanga’. A climbing maneuver where the pick is placed on a hold parallel to the climbing surface.
Sidepull - v. Rather than pulling downwards on a hold while climbing, the hold may be used in a sideways pulling manner while pushing with the legs to assist in upward movement.
Tertiary points - n. Some crampons feature a third row of points that face backward from the secondary points. These points allow for gymnastic ice or mixed climbing and give the climber the ability to find purchase when pulling backwards with the balls of their feet. (Source Petzl)
Thumb Catch - n. A climbing maneuver where the pick of a tool is pinched by the thumb in order to help manage the tools while climbing. Usually used while switching hands on a tool.
Titanium - n. A lustrous metal with a silver color, low density, low weight, and high strength. Titanium is resistant to corrosion and its strength to mass ratio makes its use ideal for high performance dry tooling tools.
Tool - n. In Dry Tooling, a tool is the instrument used with the hands for climbing. See also Ax (Axe).
Trad - n. a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers place all gear required to protect against falls, and remove it when a pitch is complete. Short for ‘traditional’.
UIAA - n. the international federation for climbing and mountaineering.
Yanga - n. Korean in origin. Aka Side Hang. Also sometimes called a ‘Yang-Gap’. A climbing maneuver where the pick is placed on a hold parallel to the climbing surface.
-bc