Santeria - The Hardest Drytool Route in Utah
For your viewing pleasure, this is Scott Adamson sending the Frist Ascent of Santeria into the history books in Jan 2013. As yet unrated, this climb has yet to see a second ascent, but suggestions have been made in the M11+/M12 range.
Also check out this enlightened blog post from a witness of the FA. There, you'll get the “The ultimate beta for hard mixed climbing: Piping–hot tools.” says Scott as he heats his tools over a fire. (Ed note: Do NOT Try that with DRY ICE Tools!)